Six years ago, when I organized a seven-course snout-to-tail pigfest in Manoa, meals using whole animals were a rarity in America. As in, so rare that chefs capable of breaking down and preparing all parts of a pig were known by name in offal-minded communities. Nationally, these included Chris Cosentino; locally they were led by Ed Kenney. This Sunday, the two are coming together to cook an offalicious feast in Kaimuki.
You might know Cosentino from “Top Chef Masters,” “Next Iron Chef,” “Chefs vs. City,” “The Best Thing I Ever Ate.” At San Francisco’s Incanto he specialized in offal dishes taken to the next level. Now he’s chef and co-owner of SF’s Cockscomb and Jackrabbit in Portland, Oregon, where amid the braised rabbit and duck fat cauliflower you’ll find things like pig skin puttanesca and whole roasted pig’s head. Cosentino is a rock star in modern American haute cuisine, especially the offal kind.
Kenney is the chef who started snout to tail in Hawaii. He was buying whole hogs from local pig farmers when other chefs were using only chops, bacon, belly and butt; now other chefs buy whole hogs, too. Kenney is not only the James Beard award-nominated chef-owner of Town, Mud Hen Water, Kaimuki Superette and Mahina & Sun’s, and host of the nationally aired local series “Family Ingredients” (PBS Hawaii, 7:30 p.m. Wednesdays), he’s a rock star in Hawaii’s sustainable food movement.
So only if you’re comfortable eating beef heart, come. Tuna heart, too. Oh, and there’ll be fried tripe. Sunday night’s feast at Mud Hen Water in Kaimuki will be five elevated courses including favorites from Cosentino’s restaurants like cured tuna heart spaghettini and pork belly with smoked meats, and recipes from his new cookbook, “Offal Good: Cooking from the Heart, with Guts.”
All the dishes will use local ingredients. Here’s the menu:
• Passed pupu of fried tripe and caviar (pictured, recipe in cookbook)
• Beef heart and oyster tartare (recipe in the book)
• Salad course will depend on what’s at the market
• Spaghettini and cured tuna heart (pictured)
• Pork belly smoked meats, daikon, scallions, mizuna and horseradish
• Bay leaf panna cotta, grappa and local fruits
The $160 price includes dinner, drink pairings, tax, tip and an autographed copy of Cosentino’s new “Offal Good” cookbook
Sunday, November 5, 2017
Seatings at 6, 6:30, 7, 7:30, 8pm
Mud Hen Water
3452 Waialae Ave.
Tickets available online: $160 includes dinner, drink pairings, tax, tip and autographed copy of “Offal Good”