I’ve heard chef Lee Anne Wong say that French canelés are one of her favorite desserts, but had to ask twice when she said “cream’le” was probably one of her favorites in the world.
“Canelé. Yes. I know what that is.”
“No, Chang, cream’le. It’s even better than that,” she said, almost like she was sharing a secret with me. Turns out, cream’le is a pastry created by Bordeaux pastry chef Cyril San Nicholas, hailed as “the future of canelé.” It looks almost like a mini bundt cake, but it has a lightly crunchy and caramelized exterior, garnished with a milk chocolate ganache, a salted butter caramel and then filled with whipped mascarpone cream with vanilla from Madagascar.
At San Nicholas’ two Bordeaux pastry shops, you can get them filled with a variety of different sweets and creams, and he offers a dessert bar so you can top it as you wish.
Wong and Fujioka’s Wine Times is bringing San Nicholas to Honolulu next Tuesday for a very special pau hana so you can try this special dessert without flying all the way to Bordeaux. Of course, it’s not just dessert — this is Lee Anne Wong, after all! — so she’s creating a special menu to lead up to it. Jason Fukeda of Fujioka’s has selected Bordeaux wines to pair perfectly with the food. The menu will include:
• Mussel and Kauai shrimp salad with gougeres (“The cheesiest of poofs,” Wong proclaims.) paired with Gravile-Lacoste Graves 2015
• Truffled Niihau lamb dumplings and a duck confit tart with Big Island figs paired with Moulin Canon-Fronsac 2010
• Maui beef bordelaise paired with De Pez Saint Estephe 2009
• Macadamia nut king cake, assorted cream’lé, and assorted macaroons, paired with Roumeiu Lacoste Sauternes 2014
Meet the man who created Wong’s favorite dessert, and see if it lives up to the hype. I’m sure I don’t need more reasons to go to Bordeaux, but this is a good excuse!
Bordeaux pau hana at Koko Head Cafe
September 19, 6 to 8 p.m.
$65 per person
For tickets, contact Fujioka’s Wine Times at 808-739-9463