There’s always room for pizza. Name any street in any city of this world, and I’m pretty sure there’s room for more pizza. That includes Hotel Street, where in between JJ Dolan’s and Bar 35, a new Neapolitan pizza shop opened a couple weeks ago with phenomenal pies baked in a 900-degree kiawe wood-burning oven.
We’re talking traditional craft pizza. Owners Inthira Marks and Matthew Resich traveled to Italy to study Neapolitan pizza-making under Enzo Coccia, one of the most respected pizzaiolos in the world.
The menu is split into traditional and contemporary pizzas. My favorite pie is the funghi ($15), topped with a medley of mushrooms, besciamella (aka bechamel, a mother sauce made from a roux and milk), fontina, house-made mozzarella and parsley.
Another pizza that impressed was the Mamma Mia! with a fresh egg yolk dropped in the middle. Pickled peppers add a nice tanginess to spicy Italian sausage and salami.
Marks and Resich started out importing their buffalo mozzarella, but switched to making it in-house to ensure the quality and consistency of one of their most important ingredients.
A lightly scorched, slightly chewy crust is the hallmark of a good Neapolitan-style pizza.
Pizzas run $14 to $19 and appetizers and desserts are $5 to $11. Three good eaters can expect to split a couple of pizzas.
We’re impressed with the consistency and quickness of service. After ordering, it was only 10 minutes before the fresh, hot pie was delivered to our table. We will be back soon to try the shrimp truck modern pizza and a piping hot Nutella calzone.
Brick Fire Tavern
16 N. Hotel St.
Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.